The Complete History of Orient Watches

Founder and Origins of ORIENT

• Founder: Shogoro Yoshida
• Year Established: 1901
• Initial Location: Tokyo, Japan
• First Watch: Orient Star
• Official Website: www.orient-watch.com

Orient has long been recognized as a watch brand that captivates horology enthusiasts with its strong reputation for delivering high-quality timepieces, timeless designs, and affordable pricing. This Japanese brand boasts a rich and distinctive history—one of its most compelling qualities for both collectors and everyday watch wearers.

This article aims to explore in depth the long journey of Orient, from its founding roots to its transformation into an integral part of the Seiko Epson Corporation.

The Early Days: From Yoshida Watch Shop to Toyo Tokei Manufacturing

The story of Orient began in 1901, when Shogoro Yoshida established a wholesale watch store called Yoshida Watch Shop in the Ueno district of Taito, Tokyo, Japan. Initially focused on selling imported pocket watches, the shop quickly found success. This early achievement highlighted Yoshida’s keen understanding of the timepiece market of that era and his ability to build an effective distribution network. He began by selling existing products, which later laid the foundation for developing his own manufacturing capabilities.

In 1912, Yoshida made a pivotal move by expanding into production, beginning with the manufacture of gold watch cases. This decision marked Yoshida’s initial shift from merchant to manufacturer—a visionary step aimed at gaining greater control over the quality and value of the watches he offered. By starting with relatively simple components like watch cases, Yoshida demonstrated his ambition to gradually integrate more aspects of the watch production value chain into his business.

Eight years later, in 1920, Yoshida founded a manufacturing company named Toyo Tokei Manufacturing. At first, the company did not immediately produce wristwatches but focused instead on making table clocks and measuring instruments. It wasn’t until 1934 that Toyo Tokei Manufacturing began producing wristwatches.

Just two years later, in 1936, a modern four-story factory was built in Hino, Tokyo, Japan. This factory played a crucial role in enabling large-scale watch production. The fact that Yoshida didn’t rush into wristwatch production, but instead built up his manufacturing capabilities through simpler products, reveals a cautious and strategic approach to growing his business.

Hard Times and a New Beginning

After experiencing substantial growth in the late 1930s, Toyo Tokei Manufacturing was hit hard by the outbreak of World War II. In 1949, the company was forced to cease operations due to Japan’s devastated post-war economy. This period serves as a reminder of how vulnerable businesses can be to global economic turmoil and the devastating impacts of large-scale conflict. Nevertheless, the spirit to revive watch production remained strong among the company’s employees.

In 1950, a year after the closure of Toyo Tokei Manufacturing, a group of employees from the Hino factory came together to restart operations under a new name: Tama Keiki Company. They resumed watch production at the same Hino facility. The first watch model produced by Tama Keiki Company was the New Orient, which launched in 1950. The company’s rebirth under a new name is a testament to the resilience and dedication of its workforce, as well as the manufacturing expertise they had cultivated over the years. The launch of the New Orient marked the beginning of a new chapter in the company’s history.

The Era of Orient Watch Company: The Birth of an Icon

A year after its revival, in 1951, Tama Keiki Company officially changed its name to Orient Watch Company, Limited (オリエント時計株式会社, Oriento Tokei Kabushikigaisha). That same year, Orient launched its first iconic model, the “Orient Star.” The name “Orient Star” was chosen with the hope that the watch would shine like a star among other mechanical timepieces.

The early Orient Star models featured elegant designs with blued steel hands and other refined details, reflecting the brand’s ambition to produce high-quality timepieces. Interestingly, the initial model utilized a pre-war movement, which was later upgraded with a newly designed movement in 1952.

The name change to Orient Watch Company marked a new identity, one more focused on watchmaking, while the launch of the Orient Star set a benchmark for the brand’s future standards in design and quality. The use of in-house movements from the very beginning reflected Orient’s commitment to mechanical craftsmanship.

After establishing a strong foundation in the domestic market, Orient began expanding internationally. In 1955, the company reached a trade agreement with China, which significantly boosted its brand visibility abroad. This strategic move opened the door to a vast market and helped build Orient’s global reputation.

By the late 1950s, Orient had successfully established a sales and service network covering more than 70 countries worldwide. This rapid global expansion highlighted Orient’s ambition to become a major player in the international watch industry.

Legendary Models That Shaped History

Throughout its history, Orient has produced a number of iconic and respected watch models. One of the most notable is the Royal Orient, first introduced in 1958. This model marked Orient’s debut in the luxury watch segment and was the brand’s first practical timepiece to feature water resistance. The early Royal Orient used a larger diameter N-type movement to improve precision. Although the line was discontinued around 2016, Royal Orient was revived in 2004, featuring Orient’s latest and finest in-house movements.

A year earlier, in 1957, Orient launched the Orient Star Dynamic. This model was significant for being among the first to use the newly developed T-type center-second movement by Orient. Moreover, it was also the first Orient watch to feature a Nivaflex mainspring, renowned for its durability and resistance to damage.

In 1964, with diving watches growing in popularity worldwide, Orient introduced its Original Diver’s Watch, also known as the Calendar Auto Orient. This move showcased Orient’s responsiveness to global market trends. In the same year, Orient also released a water-resistant world timer watch, further demonstrating its technical prowess in developing practical complications.

Another iconic model is the Orient Weekly Auto King Diver, launched in 1965. This watch featured a stylish design with a compressor-style case and was powered by a robust L-type self-winding movement. Although its water resistance at the time (40 meters) may not match today’s standards, the King Diver remains one of the most sought-after models among collectors.

The year 1967 was a milestone for Orient with the release of the Orient Fineness, which boasted the Cal. 3900 series—the world’s thinnest self-winding movement with day-date display at the time. Its 3.9 mm thickness was achieved through a clever design that offset the gear train and used a compact reverser. Additionally, the Fineness featured a one-piece case construction with no separate case back.

Other notable timepieces from this period include:

• Orient World Diver (1969) – Successor to the Calendar Auto Orient Swimmer World Trip, featuring a legible 24-hour display
• Orient Jaguar Focus (1970) – Known for its colorful dial with an eye-catching two-tone gradient
• Orient Multi Year Calendar (1976) – One of Orient’s most popular models, with a unique calendar function displaying days from 1 to 31
• Orient Touchtron (1976) – An innovative LED model developed in collaboration with Sharp, which displayed the time when the case was touched
• Cal. 46 Series Movement (1971) – A major movement line that replaced the L-type and became known for its durability and efficiency

Summary of Iconic Orient Models

Model Name	Release Year	Key Features
Orient Star	1951	First iconic model, blued steel hands, in-house movement
Orient Star Dynamic	1957	T-type center-second movement, Nivaflex mainspring
Royal Orient	1958	First luxury line, first water-resistant watch
Calendar Auto Orient	1964	First diver’s watch
Weekly Auto King Diver	1965	Stylish design, compressor case
Orient Fineness	1967	Thinnest self-winding movement with day/date display
Orient World Diver	1969	Clear 24-hour display
Orient Jaguar Focus	1970	Colorful dial with two-tone gradient
Cal. 46 Series Movement	1971	Reliable and efficient movement base
Orient Multi Year Calendar	1976	Unique calendar function
Orient Touchtron	1976	First LED model that showed time by touch

Orient in the Modern Era: Staying True to Tradition

As the 21st century arrived, the watch industry experienced major shifts, especially with the rise of quartz watches. Nevertheless, Orient remained true to its roots in mechanical watchmaking. In 2001, Seiko Epson Corporation became the majority shareholder of Orient, owning 52% of the company. By 2009, Orient became a wholly-owned subsidiary of Epson. Despite now operating under the Seiko Epson Group, Orient has continued to focus on producing in-house mechanical movements. Today, all Orient movements are manufactured in Japan by Akita Epson Corporation (formerly Akita Orient Precision Instruments Co., Ltd.). This decision to keep producing in-house movements remains one of Orient’s strongest selling points, setting it apart from many other brands in its price range.

Orient continues to offer a wide variety of timepieces with classic and retro-inspired designs that appeal to horology enthusiasts. Popular models like the Orient Bambino and Orient Mako remain favorites among both collectors and casual wearers. Orient’s dedication to mechanical movement quality, combined with timeless aesthetics and accessible pricing, has made the brand a compelling choice for many. In a market dominated by quartz, Orient’s loyalty to the traditions of mechanical watchmaking has helped the brand maintain its relevance in the modern era.

Why Orient Watches Remain Relevant and Appealing to Watch Enthusiasts

Orient’s journey—from a small shop in Tokyo to becoming part of tech giant Seiko Epson—is a story of resilience, innovation, and a steadfast commitment to quality. The brand has made significant contributions to the world of horology, particularly in the realm of high-quality mechanical watches at competitive prices. Iconic models like the Orient Star, Royal Orient, and King Diver continue to capture the hearts of watch enthusiasts across generations.

With its rich heritage and unwavering focus on mechanical craftsmanship, Orient remains an attractive choice for anyone who values the beauty and reliability of Japanese mechanical timepieces. If you’re looking for a watch with deep history, trusted quality, and timeless design, Orient is a brand worth considering.