The Iconic History of Rolex Watches

Founder and Origins of ROLEX

• Founder: Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis
• Year Established: 1905
• Initial Location: London, England
• First Watch: Rolex Oyster
• Official Website: www.rolex.com

Rolex. The name instantly evokes images of luxury, excellence, and achievement. More than just a timekeeper, a Rolex watch has become a global status symbol, worn by leaders, explorers, athletes, and cultural icons worldwide. However, behind this glamour and universal recognition lies a rich story of innovation, strong vision, and clever marketing strategy.

Over a century of Rolex history is a journey filled with technological breakthroughs in watchmaking and a relentless pursuit of perfection. This article will take you on a fascinating journey through the evolution of this iconic brand, tracing its path from humble beginnings in London to its unparalleled status in the world of horology.

Early Beginnings in London (1905): Wilsdorf and Davis

The Rolex story began in 1905 in the heart of London, when a visionary German entrepreneur named Hans Wilsdorf, along with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, established a company called Wilsdorf and Davis. The company was located in Hatton Garden, renowned as London’s diamond and jewelry trade center.

The primary focus of Wilsdorf and Davis initially was importing high-quality watch movements from Switzerland, particularly from a manufacturer named Hermann Aegler, and then fitting them into watch cases made by other companies, such as Dennison. These early timepieces were then distributed to jewelers, who would subsequently add their own brand names to the watch dials. Some of the first watches from Wilsdorf and Davis even only had a “W&D” stamp on the inside of the case back.

Although Hans Wilsdorf himself was not initially a watchmaker, his decision to prioritize the use of high-quality Swiss movements demonstrated a deep understanding of the importance of precision and reliability in a watch. This laid the foundation for the Rolex brand’s future reputation. At that time, it was common for the importer’s name to be featured on the watch, but Wilsdorf had a different vision: to create watches with a high standard of quality under his own brand.

Hans Wilsdorf: The Visionary Behind the Crown

Hans Wilsdorf was born in Bavaria, Germany, in 1881. After gaining valuable experience in the Swiss watchmaking industry, he decided to move to London in 1903. Wilsdorf was a forward-thinking individual with a strong belief in the future of the wristwatch. At a time when pocket watches were still the primary choice for most people, he saw great potential in wristwatches, especially if they could be made waterproof and highly reliable. Wilsdorf even believed that pocket watches would eventually almost completely disappear, replaced by wristwatches.

Wilsdorf’s obsession with precision and quality drove him to create timepieces that were not only attractive but also extremely accurate and dependable. His unwavering belief in the future of the wristwatch, despite widespread skepticism at the time, revealed the spirit of a true innovator daring to go against the grain and see opportunities where others did not.

Alfred Davis: The Partner Behind the Scenes

Alfred Davis, who later became Hans Wilsdorf’s brother-in-law, was a crucial partner in the establishment of Wilsdorf and Davis. Although his role is not as prominently featured in Rolex’s history compared to Wilsdorf’s, his partnership was vital in the initial stages of the company’s founding and operations. Davis helped realize Wilsdorf’s vision, and together they built the foundation for the brand that would become legendary.

Founding Year and Location

The company Wilsdorf and Davis was founded in 1905 in London, England. The specific location of their first office was in Hatton Garden, which at the time was a bustling center for the diamond and jewelry trade in London. This location choice was likely strategic for easy access to suppliers and customers in the jewelry industry.

The Search for a Memorable and Pronounceable Name

In 1908, three years after founding Wilsdorf and Davis, Hans Wilsdorf registered the trademark “Rolex” as the brand name for the watches they produced. Wilsdorf had clear criteria for his brand name: it had to be short, easy to pronounce in any language, and memorable. He also wanted a name that looked elegant and authoritative when placed on the watch dial.

The Mysterious Inspiration Behind the Name “Rolex”

According to the company’s official account, the inspiration for the name “Rolex” came to Hans Wilsdorf suddenly while riding a double-decker omnibus in London. Wilsdorf himself said that “a genie whispered ‘Rolex’ in my ear.” The name immediately felt right and satisfied all the criteria he had set. Furthermore, Wilsdorf later commented that the word “Rolex” sounded somewhat like a watch being wound, adding to the name’s appeal.

Other Theories Regarding the Name’s Origin

Although Hans Wilsdorf’s official explanation points to sudden inspiration, several other theories circulate regarding the origin of the name “Rolex.” One popular theory suggests Wilsdorf wanted a name easily pronounceable in any language, given his international ambitions from the start. Another theory posits that “Rolex” might be an onomatopoeia for the sound of a watch being wound, though this has never been officially confirmed. There is also speculation that Wilsdorf might have combined words related to horological excellence and luxury to create this unique name, such as a combination of “horological excellence” and “luxury,” or from the French phrase “horlogerie exquise,” meaning exquisite watchmaking.

Regardless of its exact origin, the choice of the name “Rolex” proved to be a highly strategic move in building a global brand that is easily remembered and pronounced worldwide. The uniqueness and ease of pronunciation of the name have significantly contributed to Rolex’s brand recognition in the international market.

Trademark Registration and Swiss Office

After choosing the name “Rolex,” Hans Wilsdorf quickly registered it as a trademark in 1908. In the same year, he also opened the company’s first office in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. This move further strengthened the company’s ties with the renowned center of the Swiss watchmaking industry and marked the beginning of Rolex’s evolution into a brand synonymous with Swiss quality.

Interpreting the “First Rolex Watch”

The question of the very first watch ever produced by Rolex doesn’t actually have a single, straightforward answer. There are several different perspectives to consider when discussing this topic. Some watch historians argue that the first Rolex watches were the early models produced by the Wilsdorf and Davis company before the name “Rolex” was officially used on the watch dial. These watches, produced starting in 1905, used high-quality movements imported from Switzerland, primarily from Hermann Aegler, and typically bore a “W&D” stamp inside the case back.

Another perspective holds that the first Rolex watch should be the first model to explicitly bear the “Rolex” brand name on its dial after the trademark was registered in 1908. According to this view, watches produced before 1908, although made by the same company, cannot be considered true “Rolex” watches because they lacked the appropriate branding.

Furthermore, some might consider the first Rolex watch to be the first model that achieved significant recognition for its level of precision. In this context, the watch that received a chronometer certificate in 1910 could be deemed the first “Rolex” to truly stand out in terms of quality and accuracy.

The uncertainty surrounding the definition of the “first Rolex watch” reflects the company’s branding evolution and its initial focus on movement quality and precision under the Wilsdorf and Davis name before “Rolex” became the primary identity known worldwide.

Early Recognition for Precision: Chronometer Certificates

Although it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly which model can be considered the first Rolex watch, the company’s early achievements in precision were highly significant in building its reputation. In 1910, a watch produced by Wilsdorf and Davis with an “11-ligne Rebberg” movement from Aegler became the world’s first wristwatch to receive a First Class Chronometric Precision Certificate from the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne, Switzerland. Although the certificate didn’t explicitly mention the name Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf himself later described it as the first Rolex wristwatch chronometer.

This achievement was followed by an even more impressive feat in 1914, when a small (25mm) Rolex wristwatch received a Class “A” precision certificate from the Kew Observatory in England. This award was highly significant because it had previously only been granted to marine chronometers, highly accurate navigational instruments used on ships. Rolex’s success in achieving the same level of precision as marine chronometers proved that wristwatches were no longer just accessories but also highly accurate and reliable timekeeping instruments.

These early chronometer certifications played a crucial role in laying the foundation for Rolex’s reputation as a manufacturer of highly accurate and reliable watches, a hallmark that continues to define the brand today. Wilsdorf’s early focus on precision, proven by recognition from leading testing institutions, gave Rolex a competitive edge and helped popularize the wristwatch as an accurate timekeeping tool in an era dominated by pocket watches.

The Move to Switzerland: A Strategic Step

In 1919, after the end of World War I, Hans Wilsdorf made a strategic move by relocating his company’s headquarters from London to Geneva, Switzerland. This decision was driven by several economic and strategic factors. Post-war Britain imposed high import taxes on luxury goods, including watches, as well as high export duties on the silver and gold used in making watch cases. These unfavorable economic conditions led Wilsdorf to seek a more stable location to grow his business.

Furthermore, moving to Geneva allowed Wilsdorf to be closer to the suppliers of high-quality watch movements in Bienne, Switzerland, who had been important partners since the company’s inception. This proximity facilitated closer communication and collaboration, which was crucial for maintaining the quality standards of Rolex products.

Prior to this move, in 1915, the company name had been changed to Rolex Watch Co. Ltd. in response to anti-German sentiment during World War I. After the move to Geneva, in 1920, the company was officially registered in Switzerland under the name Montres Rolex S.A., later simplified to Rolex SA. This move solidified Rolex’s identity as a Swiss watch brand and marked a new chapter in the company’s history.

Rolex Oyster (1926): The Birth of the Waterproof Watch

One of the most significant innovations in Rolex’s history, and indeed in the watch industry as a whole, was the launch of the Oyster case in 1926. The Oyster case is widely recognized as the first reliable waterproof and dustproof watch case. While claims that it was the world’s very first waterproof case have been debated, there’s no denying that the Oyster was a revolutionary breakthrough for its time.

The innovative design of the Oyster case featured a hermetically sealed system where the bezel, case back, and winding crown were screwed down tightly against the middle case. This system provided optimal protection against water and dust, which were previously major threats to watch mechanisms. Rolex acquired the patent for the screw-down winding crown system from Paul Perregaux and Georges Perret and developed it further, adding a clutch and combining it with a threaded case back and bezel to create superior water resistance.

This Oyster case innovation revolutionized the watch industry by addressing one of the major weaknesses of wristwatches at the time: vulnerability to water and dust. It paved the way for the use of wristwatches in various activities and environments previously considered impossible.

Proving the Oyster’s Durability: Mercedes Gleitze Crosses the English Channel (1927)

To demonstrate the reliability of the Oyster innovation to the public, Hans Wilsdorf orchestrated a very bold publicity stunt in 1927. Rolex provided an Oyster watch to Mercedes Gleitze, a British swimmer determined to become the first woman to swim across the English Channel.

Gleitze wore the watch on a necklace during her more than 10-hour swim in challenging, cold water conditions. After completing her swim, the Oyster watch was found to be functioning perfectly, proving its extraordinary water resistance.

Rolex capitalized on this historic moment by launching a massive marketing campaign. They published full-page advertisements on the front page of the Daily Mail newspaper every day for a full month, announcing the success of their waterproof watch.

This event not only proved Rolex’s technological superiority but also marked the birth of the Rolex “Testimonee” concept, where accomplished individuals become brand ambassadors and attest to the reliability of Rolex products under extreme conditions.

Rolex Perpetual (1931): The Automatic Movement Revolution

In 1931, Rolex again introduced a pivotal innovation that would set a new standard in the watch industry by introducing and patenting the first self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. The Perpetual rotor is a semi-circular weight mounted on an axle inside the watch. This weight can rotate freely 360 degrees, utilizing the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist to automatically wind the watch’s mainspring.

This innovation significantly enhanced the convenience of using a wristwatch by eliminating the need for daily manual winding. Additionally, the Perpetual mechanism helped maintain the mainspring’s power reserve at a more consistent level, ultimately resulting in better and more reliable timekeeping.

The self-winding mechanism with a freely rotating rotor subsequently became the industry standard for modern automatic watches. Previously, self-winding mechanisms like the one developed by Harwood used a weight that moved in a 270-degree arc and hit buffer springs at either end. Rolex’s innovation with the 360-degree rotating Perpetual rotor was a significant step forward.

Other Key Rolex Innovations

Beyond the Oyster and Perpetual, Rolex has continued to make significant innovations throughout its history, including:

• 1910: Rolex became the first watchmaker to receive chronometer certification for a small ladies’ wristwatch. This showed Rolex’s commitment to precision even for smaller models.
• 1945: Rolex introduced the Datejust Ref. 4467, the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a small window on the dial. The Datejust was also the first watch equipped with the iconic Jubilee bracelet and a fluted bezel, making it instantly recognizable.
• 1953: Rolex launched the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 6204, a watch water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). Although not the very first dive watch overall, the Submariner quickly became an icon in the world of dive watches and set the standard for modern dive watch design.
• 1954: Rolex produced the GMT-Master Ref. 6542, a watch capable of displaying two time zones simultaneously. While not the first company to do this, the GMT-Master became the premier choice for pilots and frequent travelers crossing time zones.
• 1956: Rolex launched the Day-Date, the first watch to display both the day and date spelled out in full on the dial, and exclusively available in gold or platinum. The Day-Date quickly became a symbol of prestige and power.
• Modern Material and Technological Innovations: Rolex continuously invests in research and development of new materials and technologies. This includes the development of Cerachrom for scratch-proof and fade-resistant bezels, Rolesor (a combination of gold and steel), the Parachrom hairspring resistant to magnetic fields and temperature variations, the Chronergy escapement improving energy efficiency, and the Syloxi silicon hairspring for enhanced precision and resistance.

This continuous stream of innovations demonstrates Rolex’s deep commitment to technical excellence and its desire to constantly push the boundaries of watchmaking.

Iconic Models That Became Legends

Throughout its history, Rolex has produced numerous watch models that are not only innovative but have also become highly respected and sought-after icons by collectors and watch enthusiasts worldwide. Some of these include:

Rolex Submariner: The King of Dive Watches

Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner is not just a watch; it’s a symbol of underwater exploration and adventure. As the first watch water-resistant to 100 meters, the Submariner set a new standard for dive watches. Its robust design, highly legible dial in low-light conditions, and rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale made it an essential tool for divers. Vintage Submariner models, especially early ones like the Ref. 6200, are highly sought after by collectors and prized for their history and unique design.

The Submariner has transcended its function as a dive tool to become a popular culture icon, frequently appearing in films (notably James Bond movies) and worn by famous figures. The combination of reliable functionality, timeless design, and association with adventure and cultural icons has made the Submariner one of the most iconic and recognizable Rolex models in the world.

Rolex Daytona: Icon of the Automotive Racing World

Launched in 1963, the Rolex Daytona was specifically designed for professional racing drivers and named after the famous Daytona International Speedway in Florida. Equipped with a tachymeter scale on the bezel, the Daytona allows drivers to measure speed based on time elapsed over a fixed distance. Its association with the legendary actor and racing enthusiast Paul Newman further cemented the Daytona’s cult status.

A Daytona model once owned by Newman himself became the most expensive collector’s watch ever sold at auction. The Daytona is not just a precision chronograph but also a symbol of speed, luxury, and exclusivity, making it one of the most coveted Rolex watches among collectors and enthusiasts. Its association with the glamorous world of motorsport and iconic figures like Paul Newman has given the Daytona a unique appeal and made it a highly valuable collector’s item.

Rolex GMT-Master: Companion for Pilots and World Travelers

First introduced in 1955, the Rolex GMT-Master was developed in collaboration with Pan American World Airways to meet the needs of pilots frequently crossing multiple time zones. Its key feature is a fourth hour hand pointing to a rotatable 24-hour bezel, allowing the user to track two time zones simultaneously. The GMT-Master II, introduced in 1985, offered enhanced functionality and reliability.

The iconic two-tone bezel, such as the “Pepsi” model with red and blue colors, makes the GMT-Master easily recognizable. The GMT-Master became an essential accessory for pilots, business people, and global travelers, symbolizing the jet age and the ease of intercontinental travel. The rise of commercial aviation and the need to track multiple time zones made the GMT-Master a highly useful and stylish tool for world travelers.

Rolex Explorer: The Watch for Explorers

The Rolex Explorer was first introduced in 1953 to commemorate the successful ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who were equipped with Rolex watches. The Explorer was designed to be a tough and reliable timepiece under extreme conditions, making it the ideal choice for explorers and adventurers. Its simple and functional design emphasizes legibility and durability.

Although there is debate about the exact brand of watch that reached the summit of Everest, Rolex’s association with this historic expedition solidified its image as a watch capable of enduring the world’s most challenging conditions.

Rolex’s clever marketing successfully linked its brand with the heroic achievement on Everest, even if the facts might be more complex. This association continues to have a major impact on the Explorer’s brand image.  

Other Iconic Models

• Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Considered the progenitor of the modern wristwatch, representing Rolex’s pioneering spirit in creating waterproof and automatic timepieces.
• Rolex Day-Date: Often referred to as the “President’s Watch” due to its popularity among world leaders and influential figures. The Day-Date is exclusively crafted from precious metals and was the first watch to display the day and date spelled out in full on the dial.  
• Rolex Milgauss: Specifically designed for scientists and engineers working in environments with strong magnetic fields. The Milgauss can withstand magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss.

Establishing a Foundation for Sustainability

In 1944, following the death of his wife Florence, Hans Wilsdorf established the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. Wilsdorf bequeathed all his shares in Rolex to this foundation. This decision demonstrated Wilsdorf’s vision extending beyond mere business profit, aiming to ensure the company’s future and make a positive contribution to society.

The Foundation’s Goals and Impact

The primary goal of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation is to secure the future of the Rolex company, maintain its independence, and support various charitable activities. Since Wilsdorf’s death in 1960, the foundation has owned and operated Rolex SA. The foundation channels a significant portion of its profits towards various philanthropic causes, including supporting education and scientific research.

This ownership structure through a foundation allows Rolex to focus on long-term quality and innovation without pressure from shareholders to maximize short-term profits. It also reflects Wilsdorf’s philanthropic vision to create a sustainable legacy beneficial to future generations.

Marketing Strategy Through Association with Achievement

From the beginning, Rolex has employed a clever marketing strategy by associating its brand with high-achieving individuals and significant events across various fields. The “Testimonee” concept, initiated with Mercedes Gleitze in 1927, continues today, with Rolex partnering with renowned athletes, explorers, and artists as brand ambassadors.

Rolex marketing focuses not only on product features but also on values such as endurance, excellence, and achievement, reflected in its associations with prestigious figures and events. By linking its brand with success and accomplishment in diverse fields, Rolex has successfully built a strong and aspirational brand image.

Involvement in the World of Sports

Rolex has strong ties to the world of sports, serving as a sponsor and official timekeeper for numerous prestigious events in tennis (Wimbledon, Roland-Garros, Australian Open, US Open), golf, motor racing (including the 24 Hours of Daytona), and sailing. Many famous athletes like Roger Federer and Tiger Woods have been Rolex brand ambassadors. This involvement not only provides brand visibility but also reinforces Rolex’s image as a symbol of precision and reliability in competitive environments.

Role in Historic Expeditions

Rolex watches have accompanied various significant expeditions throughout history, proving their reliability and endurance under extreme conditions. This includes the first expedition to fly over Everest in 1933 and the successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. In 1960, a specially designed Rolex watch (the “Deep Sea Special”) successfully withstood the extreme pressure at the bottom of the Mariana Trench.

Rolex’s involvement in various extreme activities and historic achievements not only provides publicity but also serves as a “living laboratory” to test and perfect their watch technology. By placing its watches in the most challenging conditions, Rolex can prove their reliability and durability, which are key selling points for the brand.

Rolex is More Than Just a Timekeeping Instrument

The history of Rolex is an extraordinary tale of vision, innovation, and relentless excellence. From its humble beginnings in London in 1905, the brand has evolved into a global symbol of luxury and prestige. Hans Wilsdorf’s legacy as a visionary who not only created precise and reliable timepieces but also built an iconic brand through continuous innovation and shrewd marketing strategies will continue to inspire future generations.

Rolex is more than just a timekeeping instrument; it is a representation of achievement, endurance, and the unending pursuit of perfection. The brand continues to innovate and maintain its position as a leader in the luxury watch industry, proving that the Rolex crown will continue to shine brightly in the world of horology.

Rolex Key Innovations:

Year	Innovation	Brief Description
1926	Oyster Case	The first reliable waterproof and dustproof watch case.
1931	Perpetual Mechanism	The first self-winding mechanism with a 360-degree rotating rotor.
1945	Datejust	First self-winding chronometer watch displaying the date in a window on the dial.
1953	Submariner	First dive watch water-resistant to 100 meters.
1954	GMT-Master	Watch capable of displaying two time zones simultaneously.
1956	Day-Date	First watch displaying the day and date spelled out in full on the dial.
2000s	Cerachrom Bezel	Highly scratch-resistant and fade-proof ceramic bezel.
2014	Syloxi Silicon Hairspring	Silicon hairspring offering unparalleled stability and resistance to environmental factors.
2015	Superlative Chronometer Cert.	Rolex’s stricter internal certification standard (beyond COSC) for precision/reliability.

Iconic Models:

Model Name	Year Introduced	Key Features	Notable Association (if any)
Submariner	1953	Iconic dive watch, water-resistant to specific depths, rotating bezel.	James Bond
Daytona	1963	Chronograph designed for racers, tachymeter scale on bezel.	Paul Newman
GMT-Master	1955	Displays two time zones, rotatable 24-hour bezel.	Pan Am Pilots
Explorer	1953	Designed for explorers, robust, legible, reliable in extreme conditions.	Mount Everest Expedition
Oyster Perpetual	1926	Progenitor of modern watches, waterproof & automatic, timeless design.
Day-Date	1956	Displays full day and date, precious metals only, “President’s Watch”.	World Leaders
Milgauss	1956	Designed to resist strong magnetic fields, ideal for scientists/engineers.