More Than Just Time: Exploring the Historical Roots of Longines

Founder and Origins of Longines

• Founder: Auguste Agassiz
• Year Established: 1832
• Initial Location: Saint-Imier, Switzerland
• First Watch: Pocket Watch “20A”
• Official Website: www.longines.com

Longines, a name synonymous with elegance and precision, has adorned the wrists of pioneers, athletes, and individuals with discerning taste for nearly two centuries. Founded in 1832, this Swiss watch brand stands as one of the oldest luxury watch manufacturers still in operation today. Its global reputation is built on a rich foundation of tradition, continuous innovation, and an unwavering commitment to performance.

Its iconic symbol, the winged hourglass, is not merely a logo but a legacy, registered as the oldest trademark still used in its original form with the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). The story of Longines is a narrative of vision, expertise, and a pioneering spirit that has shaped the world of horology.

This article will take you on a journey through time, tracing the origins of this timeless brand, uncovering its founders, and highlighting the significant milestones that have made it a legend in the watchmaking industry.

The Birth of a Brand in the Heart of the Swiss Watch Industry

The Longines story began in a quiet small town in the Swiss Jura region, Saint-Imier, in 1832. Amidst this picturesque mountainous landscape, Auguste Agassiz, a talented watchmaker with vision, established a watchmaking workshop. This step wasn’t taken alone; Agassiz partnered with two associates, Henri Raiguel and Florian Morel, who were not only lawyers but also related to Agassiz through marriage. The newly formed company initially operated under the name Raiguel Jeune & Cie..

The choice of Saint-Imier as Longines’ birthplace was no coincidence. The Jura region had long been known as the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry, a center of expertise and innovation in horology. By establishing his workshop there, Agassiz had direct access to a network of skilled artisans and essential resources for producing high-quality timepieces.

The involvement of two lawyers as initial partners, alongside Agassiz’s technical expertise, suggests a well-planned and considered business approach from the outset. Perhaps Raiguel and Morel contributed their expertise in legal and commercial aspects, helping Agassiz build a solid foundation for his new company.

From “Long Meadows” Came an Iconic Name

In 1852, the company’s leadership passed to Ernest Francillon, Auguste Agassiz’s nephew, who possessed remarkable foresight. As a trained economist with a deep understanding of the intricacies of the watchmaking industry, Francillon played a crucial role in modernizing the company’s operations. One of his most significant moves was the decision to build Longines’ first manufacturing plant in 1867.

This new factory was established in an area south of Saint-Imier known locally as “Es Longines,” literally meaning “the long meadows.” This location subsequently inspired Francillon to adopt a new, more concise and memorable name for his company: Longines. Under Francillon’s leadership, Longines became one of the pioneers in industrialized watch production. He adopted modern manufacturing techniques learned from the United States in the 1870s, allowing the company to significantly increase efficiency and production volume.

Furthermore, Francillon also recognized the importance of protecting his products from counterfeiting. He ensured that every watch leaving the factory was engraved with a unique serial number, the Longines trade name, and the now-iconic winged hourglass symbol. This move aimed not only to protect the company’s revenue but also to build consumer trust in the authenticity and quality of Longines products.

Caliber 20A and Early Forays into Timekeeping

The year 1867 was not only a milestone due to the establishment of the first Longines factory but also marked the production of the first watch movement entirely manufactured in-house. This movement was known as the Caliber 20A.

The Caliber 20A was an innovation for its time, featuring an anchor escapement mechanism typically used in pendulum clocks, as well as winding and time-setting functions operated via the pendant crown. The technical excellence and design of the Caliber 20A gained international recognition when it won a prestigious award at the 1867 Universal Exhibition in Paris. This recognition not only enhanced Longines’ reputation as an innovative and high-quality watch manufacturer but also provided a significant boost for the brand’s future development.

Furthermore, in 1878, Longines achieved another significant milestone by producing its first simple chronograph movement, known as the Caliber 20H. This movement was patented by the talented watchmaker Alfred Lugrin and proved highly popular, especially for timing applications at various sporting events.

Stopwatches powered by the Caliber 20H became highly sought after among sports enthusiasts, particularly at American horse racing tracks in the 1880s. This marked the beginning of Longines’ long and successful involvement in sports timekeeping, a field that would later become one of the brand’s hallmarks.

Weaving History Through Innovation and Illustrious Partnerships

From its inception, Longines demonstrated a pioneering spirit and strong commitment to innovation. In 1880, the Longines name was officially registered as a trademark, followed by the registration of the iconic winged hourglass logo in 1889. This logo not only became an easily recognizable brand symbol but is also the oldest trademark still actively used in its original form today.

By 1886, Longines had built a solid reputation in the sports world, becoming the primary supplier of timing equipment for most sports officials in New York. Longines’ involvement in sports was further cemented when the brand became the official timekeeper for the Athens Olympics in 1896, marking its participation in the first modern international sporting event.

In 1912, Longines again showcased its innovation by introducing the first timing mechanism automatically triggered by an electric wire, a breakthrough that helped shape sports history. Longines’ engagement with the world of aviation began in 1919 when the brand was appointed the official watch supplier for the International Aeronautical Federation (FAI).

This partnership ushered Longines into an era of close collaboration with aviation pioneers. In 1927, Longines partnered with US Navy officer Philip Van Horn Weems to create the Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch, an innovative timepiece allowing pilots to synchronize the second hand with radio time signals, a crucial feature for early flight navigation.

Following his historic solo flight across the North Atlantic, legendary aviator Charles Lindbergh also partnered with Longines to develop the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch in 1931. This watch was designed as a sophisticated navigation tool incorporating several essential features to help pilots determine their position during flight.

Longines is also known as a pioneer in the development of chronograph technology. In 1936, the brand created the world’s first flyback chronograph, known as the Caliber 13ZN. The flyback feature allowed users to restart timing without needing to stop and reset the chronograph first, an innovation particularly useful for pilots. Two years later, in 1938, Longines again made its mark as one of the first by patenting a waterproof chronograph, featuring the mushroom-shaped pushers that are now a brand signature.

Beyond mechanical innovations, Longines also embraced quartz technology. One of the most notable achievements in this area was the creation of the Feuille d’Or (“Gold Leaf”), an ultra-thin watch measuring just 1.98mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest watch at the time. Longines’ involvement in sports continues into the modern era, with the brand serving as the official timekeeper for numerous prestigious events such as the Kentucky Derby (since 2011), as well as various equestrian, Alpine skiing, and Formula 1 competitions.

Exploring Iconic Gems in the Longines Collection

Throughout its long and illustrious history, Longines has produced a number of iconic watch models that reflect not only technical innovation but also timeless design. Some have become brand symbols and are highly sought after by collectors.

• Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch (1931): Developed in collaboration with legendary aviator Charles Lindbergh, this watch was a sophisticated navigation tool for pilots. Equipped with a rotating bezel and special scales, it allowed pilots to easily calculate their longitude.
• Weems Second-Setting Watch (1929): Designed with input from Captain Philip Van Horn Weems of the US Navy, this watch enabled pilots to synchronize their second hand with radio time signals, an essential feature for accurate navigation in the early days of aviation.
• Conquest (1954): Launched in 1954, the Conquest was one of Longines’ first sporty collections and introduced the concept of a “product family” into the brand’s strategy. With its elegant yet robust design, the Conquest quickly gained popularity and remains a key part of Longines’ portfolio today. This collection also spawned the highly popular HydroConquest sub-collection among water sports enthusiasts, offering reliable water resistance and functionality.
• Flagship (1957): Introduced in 1957, the Flagship collection featured elegant watches with clean, classic designs. Known for its slim profile and refined finishing, the Flagship quickly became a symbol of Longines’ timeless elegance.
• DolceVita (1990s): With its distinctive rectangular case and design inspiration from the 1920s Art Deco era, the DolceVita collection has become an icon of Longines elegance. Often associated with the equestrian world, the DolceVita offers a touch of timeless Italian style.
• Legend Diver (1959): First introduced in 1959, the Legend Diver was revived as a modern re-issue of Longines’ super compressor dive watch from the 1960s. Known for its unique dual-crown design and internal rotating bezel, the Legend Diver blends vintage aesthetics with modern reliability.
• Spirit Collection (2020): Launched in 2020, the Spirit collection pays homage to Longines’ aviation heritage. With designs inspired by watches used by pioneers, this collection combines classic aesthetics with modern technology, including the Spirit Zulu Time model featuring a GMT function to display dual time zones.

Here is a table summarizing some of Longines’ iconic models throughout history:

Model Name	Year Introduced (Approx.)	Key Features/Historical Significance
Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch	1931	Designed with Charles Lindbergh for aviation navigation.
Weems Second-Setting Watch	1929	Developed with Capt. Philip Van Horn Weems for time synchronization via radio.
Conquest	1954	Longines’ first sporty collection and “product family” concept.
Flagship	1957	Elegant watch collection with classic and timeless design.
DolceVita	1990s	Iconic rectangular watch inspired by Art Deco, linked to equestrian sports.
Legend Diver	1959	Modern re-issue of a super compressor dive watch with dual crowns.
Spirit Collection	2020	Inspired by pioneer aviator watches, includes GMT Zulu Time model.

Longines Today: Inheriting Tradition, Embracing the Future

Entering the modern era, Longines continues to maintain its position as a key player in the luxury watch industry. Since 1983, the brand has been part of the Swatch Group, the world’s largest watchmaking conglomerate. Despite being part of a large group, Longines has successfully maintained operational autonomy and continues to operate from its historic headquarters in Saint-Imier.

Longines is often classified as an “affordable luxury” brand, offering a combination of high Swiss quality, rich heritage, and elegant design at a more competitive price point compared to other high-end luxury brands. The brand’s core values of elegance, tradition, and performance continue to guide every Longines creation to this day.

The modern Longines collection encompasses a wide range of styles to suit diverse tastes. The Master Collection features classic watches with automatic mechanical movements, often equipped with complications like chronographs and moon phase indicators. The Conquest collection offers sporty watches with robust designs and precise movements, both automatic and quartz.

For water sports enthusiasts, the HydroConquest collection provides reliable dive watches with high water resistance. The DolceVita collection continues to captivate with its elegant rectangular design, inspired by the Art Deco era. The Flagship Heritage collection revives iconic models from the past, offering a touch of nostalgia for vintage watch fans. Finally, the Spirit collection celebrates Longines’ aviation heritage with strong, functional designs.

Remembering the Legacy, Facing the Future with Elegance

For over 185 years, Longines has proven itself to be more than just a watchmaker; the brand has become part of history, accompanying explorers, athletes, and individuals who value precision and elegance. With an estimated over 50 million watches created, each with its own unique story, Longines has left an indelible mark on the world of horology. The brand’s commitment to sports timekeeping continues today, with Longines remaining the official timekeeper for numerous prestigious events worldwide.

With its rich heritage, continuous innovation, and unwavering dedication to elegance, Longines remains one of the most respected and sought-after Swiss watch brands in the world. The story of Longines is proof that time is indeed precious, and the brand continues to inspire us to cherish every second.