Breitling Watches History: From a Humble Workshop to Master of the Skies, Land, and Sea

Founder and Origins of Breitling

• Founder: Léon Breitling
• Year Established: 1884
• Initial Location: Saint-Imier, Switzerland
• First Watch: Pocket Chronographs
• Official Website: www.breitling.com

Breitling, a name synonymous with precision timekeeping and excellence in the world of horology, has built a solid reputation over more than 135 years. Known for its accurate chronometers and robust pilot watches, Breitling’s technically focused designs have stood the test of time, making it one of the most sought-after watch brands in the industry.

The Breitling story began in a modest workshop in the Swiss mountains and has transformed into a dominant force in the luxury watch market. This article will take you on an in-depth journey through Breitling’s rich history, uncovering how the brand was formed, who its founder was, where it was first established, what its first watch model was, and various other supporting details that make Breitling a legend.

The Beginnings of Breitling: Birth of a Legend (1884-1914)

How Breitling Was Founded: The Vision of a Pioneer

The Breitling saga commenced in 1884 when Léon Breitling established his watch brand in the Jura Mountains of Switzerland. At the relatively young age of 24, Léon had a clear vision: to create instruments that not only measured time but could also divide and master it. With great passion and enthusiasm, he was determined to produce watches that were useful, functional, reliable, and sturdy – qualities that remain hallmarks of Breitling products today.

Léon Breitling recognized that at the end of the 19th century, the world was rapidly advancing in fields such as industry, science, and sports. This progress created an urgent need for timekeeping methods far more precise than those currently available.

As an expert watchmaker, Léon aimed to create watches and timing instruments with superior accuracy for various applications, from complex industrial needs to precise timing in competitive sports. This drive became the foundation for Breitling’s establishment, a brand committed to innovation and precision from its inception.

Who Founded Breitling: Profile of Léon Breitling

Léon Breitling, the founder of this iconic brand, was born in 1860 and passed away in 1914. His interest in the world of watchmaking blossomed from a young age, and he even began an apprenticeship in the field as a teenager. This early step would later change the course of his life and lead him to establish one of the most famous watch companies in the world.

In 1884, at the age of 24, Léon founded his first company, a watchmaking workshop named “G Leon Breitling,” located in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. Léon was not only a talented watchmaker but also a shrewd entrepreneur. He understood the importance of marketing in growing his business.

As his company evolved, Léon rebranded, changing the name to “L. Breitling, Montbrillant Watch Manufactory,” a move indicating his vision for broader growth and brand recognition. The combination of technical watchmaking expertise and a strong understanding of business strategy was one of the keys to Breitling’s early success.

Where Breitling Was Founded: Saint-Imier, the Heart of the Swiss Watch Industry

Léon Breitling’s first workshop opened at an address that is now legendary: Place Neuve 1, Saint-Imier. Saint-Imier itself is located in the Bernese Jura region of Switzerland, an area renowned as a center for high-quality watchmaking. Initially, Breitling was just a modest workshop where Léon began realizing his dream of creating revolutionary timepieces.

The choice of location was highly strategic, given Switzerland’s reputation as a hub of watchmaking expertise and tradition. Operating in the heart of this industry gave Breitling access to crucial resources, skills, and networks essential for the brand’s future growth and development.

The Company’s Initial Focus: Specialization in Chronographs

From its very beginning, Breitling focused on manufacturing chronographs and other precision timepieces intended for various purposes, including sports, science, and industry. Léon Breitling himself had a deep interest in speed and the world of racing.

This passion drove him to develop the most reliable stopwatches ever created. Under his leadership, the company produced complex watches, multi-functional chronographs, and other chronometric instruments demonstrating a commitment to accuracy and innovation.

During that era, the demand for chronographs steadily increased with rapid technological advancements in sectors like industry, military, and science. Breitling quickly positioned itself as a key player in meeting this need, producing timing instruments that were not only accurate but also designed to meet the demands of professional use.

This early focus on chronographs became a defining characteristic of the Breitling brand and laid the foundation for its reputation as a manufacturer of highly functional and precise watches.

Key Early Innovations: The Foundation of Technical Excellence

In its early days, Breitling demonstrated a strong commitment to technical innovation. In 1893, the company patented a watch movement with an impressive 8-day power reserve. This innovation allowed watches to operate longer without needing to be wound periodically, a highly valued advantage at the time. In the same year, Breitling also introduced the pulsograph, a tool specifically designed to measure a patient’s pulse rate. Equipped with a logarithmic scale ideal for the task, it quickly became very popular among doctors.

Not stopping there, in 1896, Breitling achieved another significant milestone by creating a chronograph accurate to two-fifths of a second. This level of precision was considered extraordinary for its time and further solidified Breitling’s reputation as a manufacturer of high-standard technical watches. Entering the 20th century, specifically in 1905, as cars became increasingly popular, Léon Breitling patented a pocket tachymeter named “Vitesse.”

This device was a precursor to modern vehicle speedometers and allowed users to measure speeds between 15 and 150 kilometers per hour. Furthermore, Léon Breitling was known for his innovation in developing chronographs with the pusher mechanism integrated directly into the crown of pocket watches.

These early innovations showcased not only Léon Breitling’s technical expertise but also his ambition to create instruments that were not just accurate but also highly useful for various professions and needs of the era.

Here is a table summarizing Léon Breitling’s key early innovations:

Year	Innovation	Description
1893	Movement with 8-day power reserve	Allowed the watch to run longer without needing to be wound.
1893	Pulsograph	A tool for measuring patient pulse rates, using a logarithmic scale.
1896	Chronograph with 2/5 second accuracy	An exceptionally high level of accuracy for its time.
1905	Pocket Tachymeter (“Vitesse”)	Precursor to vehicle speedometers, measuring speeds between 15 and 150 km/h.
Early	Chronograph with pusher integrated into the crown	Simplified chronograph operation by integrating the pusher function into the crown.

Expansion and Move to La Chaux-de-Fonds: Towards the Center of Watchmaking

As success continued to grow, Léon Breitling realized the need for expansion to meet increasing market demand. In 1892, he made the crucial decision to transform his modest workshop into a larger, fully equipped watch factory. This step was accompanied by relocating the company’s operations to La Chaux-de-Fonds.

La Chaux-de-Fonds was then, and remains today, recognized as the main center of the watchmaking industry in Switzerland and even worldwide. Moving to this strategic location not only allowed Breitling to increase its production capacity but also provided access to a more established watchmaking ecosystem, including suppliers of high-quality components and skilled labor.

During this period, the Breitling brand also underwent a name change to “Leon G. Breitling Montbrillant SA Watch Factory,” and its workforce grew to 60 employees, indicating significant business growth.

Within a decade of this move, Breitling sold over 100,000 chronographs and stopwatches, an outstanding achievement that further cemented its position as a major player in the watch industry. The decision to move to La Chaux-de-Fonds was a strategic step that enabled Breitling to continue growing and strengthen its reputation globally.

The Gaston Breitling Era: Shifting Focus to Aviation (1914-1927)

Gaston’s Role After Léon’s Death: Continuing the Legacy with a New Vision

After Léon Breitling passed away in 1914, leadership of the company was passed down to his son, Gaston Breitling. Gaston not only continued the work pioneered by his father in developing and producing Breitling chronographs but also had a strong vision for the company’s future. He closely observed the developments in aviation, particularly during World War I, and recognized the significant need for precise timing instruments for pilots. This awareness prompted Gaston to gradually shift Breitling’s focus towards the rapidly growing aviation industry. This move proved crucial and strategic for Breitling’s long-term success, positioning it as a pioneer in creating watches for aviators.

Breitling’s First Wristwatch: A Revolutionary Wrist Chronograph

1915 marked a significant milestone for Breitling with the introduction of their first wrist chronograph. This innovative watch was an immediate success in the market. Gaston Breitling is credited with this creation, which featured one of the first wrist chronographs with an independent pusher located at the 2 o’clock position.

This innovation was highly significant as it separated the chronograph pusher functions – start, stop, and reset – from the watch crown. This clever design not only made operating the chronograph easier and more intuitive but also helped reduce the risk of errors during use. The bicompax layout introduced in this watch continues to influence modern chronograph designs even today, demonstrating how revolutionary this first Breitling creation was.

Innovation for Pilots: The Independent Chronograph Pusher

Following the success of his first wrist chronograph, Gaston Breitling increasingly focused the brand’s efforts on creating watches specifically designed to meet pilots’ needs. In 1923, he launched another key innovation: the first independent chronograph pusher. This development separated the stop and start functions of the chronograph, which had previously often been integrated. This separation proved highly useful for pilots in accurately timing flights, and was also beneficial for timing sports competitions and other applications.

Furthermore, Gaston Breitling is also known as the creator of the first pocket chronograph that allowed the chronograph functions to be operated using two distinct pushers. The start and stop functions were controlled by one pusher, while the reset function was integrated into the crown’s operation and design.

This innovation was a first in horological history, enabling users to start timing an event, pause it temporarily to read the time, and then resume timing or reset the chronograph hands to begin a new measurement. These innovations demonstrated Gaston Breitling’s deep understanding of chronograph users’ needs, especially pilots, and his commitment to continually developing features that enhanced the functionality and accuracy of Breitling watches.

The Willy Breitling Era: Mastering the Skies, Land, and Sea (1932-1979)

Willy Takes Over the Company: The Third Generation with an Expansive Vision

In 1932, Gaston Breitling decided to retire and handed over the company’s leadership to his son, Willy Breitling. Willy became the third generation of the Breitling family to lead the company. When he took over, Willy was very young, only 19 years old and having just finished his education.

Nevertheless, he had received thorough commercial and technical training and was ready to lead Breitling into its next era of glory. Willy had an expansive vision for the company’s future, particularly in strengthening ties with the ever-growing world of aviation and also venturing into new markets.

Partnership with the World of Aviation: Official Supplier to Air Forces

Under Willy Breitling’s leadership, the brand further strengthened its relationship with the world of aviation. Willy successfully forged strategic partnerships with the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and the US Army. Breitling quickly gained international recognition for its innovations and development of timing instruments for aeronautics. Breitling watches were so highly valued for their accuracy and reliability that the company was contracted to become the official supplier of chronographs to the Royal Air Force.

In fact, Breitling instruments were used to time some of the most critical air battles during World War II, highlighting the crucial role Breitling watches played for aviators at the time. By the early 1940s, Breitling had become a leading supplier of aviation instruments known for precision and reliability, with their Huit Aviation Department supplying the British Royal Air Force and many other air forces. These strong partnerships further cemented Breitling’s reputation as the watch brand of choice for aviation professionals.

Formation of the Huit Aviation Department: Focus on Precision Cockpit Instruments

One of Willy Breitling’s most significant achievements was the establishment of the Huit Aviation Department in 1938. The name “Huit,” meaning “eight” in French, was chosen to reflect the exceptional eight-day power reserve of the cockpit clocks and other dashboard instruments produced by this department. The department was dedicated to developing, manufacturing, and testing instruments that could function reliably under harsh flight conditions.

The timepieces developed by the Huit Aviation Department were also known for their lightweight cases and ease of installation in aircraft cockpits. Additionally, the department was responsible for developing Breitling wrist chronographs specifically designed for aviation use.

To ensure product quality, Breitling even established its own testing laboratory equipped with advanced technology, including micro-oscillographs for radio-electric inspection of watch movements and extreme temperature simulators.

The formation of the Huit Aviation Department was a strategic move that further solidified Breitling’s focus on the aviation industry and affirmed their commitment to providing precise and reliable instruments for professionals in the field.

Birth of Icons: Development of Legendary Models

Willy Breitling’s leadership era witnessed the birth of some of Breitling’s most iconic and legendary watch models. In 1942, Breitling introduced the Chronomat, a name derived from “Chronographe” and “Mathematique.” Initially, the Chronomat was designed as an aid for scientists and featured a revolutionary circular slide rule bezel, a feature that would later become characteristic of the Navitimer model.

Then, in 1952, the Navitimer was born as a natural evolution of the Chronomat. Developed in collaboration with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the Navitimer featured a sophisticated circular slide rule, allowing pilots to perform various essential flight calculations directly from their wrist.

Not solely focused on the skies, in 1957, Breitling also ventured into the underwater world with the launch of the SuperOcean. This dive watch was specifically designed for professionals and boasted water resistance up to 200 meters, a significant technical achievement for its time. The launch of these legendary models under Willy Breitling’s leadership not only strengthened Breitling’s position in the watch industry but also created a legacy that continues to be cherished today.

Continuous Innovation: Development of Modern Chronographs

Willy Breitling continued the family tradition of innovation by developing crucial chronograph features. In 1934, he patented a groundbreaking chronograph function by adding a second pusher at the 4 o’clock position, specifically dedicated to resetting the chronograph to zero. This innovation completed the development of the modern chronograph with two independent pushers located on either side of the watch crown.

Later, in 1969, Breitling was involved in a secret project known as Project 99, collaborating with other leading brands like Heuer, Buren, and Dubois-Depraz. This collaboration resulted in the development of the world’s first automatic chronograph movement, a monumental achievement significant not only for the brands involved but for the entire watchmaking industry.

Breitling then launched the Chrono-Matic in the same year, becoming one of the first automatic chronographs available on the market. These innovations demonstrated Breitling’s ongoing commitment to advancing horological technology and its ability to adapt to changing times.

Expansion into Other Markets: Exploring the Worlds of Diving and Automotive

Under Willy Breitling’s leadership, the brand not only focused on aviation but also began exploring other promising markets. After successfully building a strong reputation among aviators, Willy turned his attention to the increasingly popular underwater world. In 1957, Breitling launched the SuperOcean, a dive watch designed to meet the needs of professional divers and water sports enthusiasts. The watch featured water resistance up to 200 meters, a very impressive feature at the time.

Additionally, Breitling started developing watches aimed at the rapidly growing world of automotive sports. In the 1960s, Breitling introduced the Top Time collection, a line of sporty and contemporary chronograph watches designed to appeal to racing fans and those with dynamic lifestyles. This expansion into the diving and automotive markets demonstrated Breitling’s ability to adapt to diverse market trends and reach a broader audience, while maintaining its commitment to quality and innovation.

Breitling in the Modern Era: An Evolving Legacy (1979-Present)

Change of Ownership: The Ernest Schneider Era and the Revival of the Mechanical Chronograph

1979 marked a new chapter in Breitling’s history with a change of ownership. Willy Breitling, who had led the company for decades, decided to sell the business to Ernest Schneider. Schneider was a watchmaker and pilot who also owned the Sicura watch company. After the acquisition, Breitling watch production was moved to the Sicura factory in Grenchen. The Sicura company was later renamed Montres Breitling AG and eventually became Breitling AG in 1994.

Schneider was known as a great admirer of the Breitling brand, especially the highly popular Navitimer model. During this era, the Swiss watch industry faced significant challenges due to the popularity of cheaper and more accurate quartz watches. However, Schneider had strong faith in the future of mechanical watches and saw an opportunity to reassert Breitling’s expertise in manufacturing high-quality mechanical chronographs. His leadership guided Breitling through a difficult transition period and laid the groundwork for the brand’s resurgence in the modern era.

Introduction of Innovative Models: The Updated Chronomat and the Emergency Series

Under Ernest Schneider’s leadership, Breitling continued to innovate and introduce significant new models. In 1983, Breitling created the “Frecce Tricolori” Chronograph specifically for the Italian Air Force aerobatic team. This watch introduced key design elements such as a rotating bezel with four rider tabs at the quarter-hour positions.

A year later, in 1984, Breitling celebrated its centenary by relaunching the Chronomat. This model marked the comeback of the mechanical chronograph amidst the dominance of quartz watches. The updated Chronomat design, inspired by the “Frecce Tricolori,” featured the iconic bezel with distinctive rider tabs, which not only protected the crystal but also made it easier for pilots to time events.

In 1995, Breitling made waves again by introducing the Emergency, a revolutionary watch equipped with a built-in micro-transmitter capable of broadcasting on the 121.5 MHz distress frequency. This watch was specifically designed for aviation professionals and could send an emergency signal detectable by passing aircraft within a radius of 90 nautical miles. These innovations showed that Breitling in the modern era continued to strive to combine the brand’s heritage with the latest technology to produce watches that were not only stylish but also highly functional and relevant to the needs of the times.

The Georges Kern Era: “Modern Retro” Strategy, Sustainability, and Latest Innovations

In 2017, Breitling underwent another ownership change when the company was sold to the private equity firm CVC Capital Partners. This new era was marked by the appointment of Georges Kern, a veteran figure in the watch industry, as CEO. Kern brought a new vision focused on a “modern retro” strategy, aiming to blend classic design elements from Breitling’s heritage with modern and innovative touches.

Under Kern’s leadership, Breitling expanded its focus beyond just aviation to embrace the brand’s three historical universes: Air, Land, and Sea. Sustainability also became a pivotal pillar in this new strategy, with various initiatives launched, including the use of ECONYL watch straps made from recycled ocean waste and eco-friendly product packaging. Breitling also introduced a new “script-B” logo inspired by Willy Breitling’s mid-20th-century branding, symbolizing the brand’s evolution that honors the past while looking to the future. In 2024, Breitling celebrated its 140th anniversary with various achievements and celebrations, including the launch of the new B19 movement, their first perpetual calendar chronograph. The Georges Kern era brought a breath of fresh air to Breitling, emphasizing respect for heritage, design innovation relevant to current trends, and a strong commitment to sustainability, showing that the brand continues to adapt and thrive in the modern age.

Modern Models and Latest Collections: Honoring Heritage While Embracing the Future

Breitling continues to release new watch models that not only honor iconic designs from the past but also incorporate modern technology and materials. This includes re-editions of highly sought-after classic models, such as the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, which revives an iconic design from yesteryear. Modern collections like the Premier, Avenger, and Superocean Heritage remain popular among watch enthusiasts, offering the combination of style, performance, and reliability characteristic of Breitling.

Furthermore, Breitling continues to develop its own in-house watch movements, such as the Breitling Caliber 01, used in many of their flagship models. The development of these in-house movements demonstrates Breitling’s commitment to quality and top-tier technical innovation. By continually presenting models that blend historical heritage with modern innovation, Breitling successfully maintains its relevance in the competitive luxury watch market and continues to attract new generations of watch fans.

Conclusion

Since its founding in 1884, Breitling has undertaken an extraordinary journey, building an unparalleled reputation for precision, innovation, and reliability in the world of watchmaking. From humble beginnings in a workshop in Saint-Imier, the brand has transformed into a global icon known for its significant contributions to aviation and horology. Breitling’s commitment to creating high-quality instruments for professionals and watch enthusiasts remains at the core of its identity. With a rich heritage and a strong focus on the future, Breitling continues to be a major force driving innovation and setting new standards in the prestigious Swiss watch industry.