Audemars Piguet: A Horological Journey

Founder and Origins of Audemars Piguet

• Founder: Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet
• Year Established: 1875
• Initial Location: Le Brassus, Switzerland
• First Watch: A Pocket Watch with a Minute Repeater
• Official Website: www.audemarspiguet.com

Audemars Piguet is a name synonymous with luxury and excellence in the world of horology. As one of the members of the “Holy Trinity” of Swiss watchmaking (alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin), the brand boasts a rich history filled with innovation. This article will take you on a journey through time, tracing the brand’s roots from a remote Swiss valley to becoming a global powerhouse in the luxury watch industry.

We will explore how two childhood friends with a shared vision founded the company, the pivotal innovations they introduced, and the iconic models that have captured the hearts of collectors and watch enthusiasts around the world.

The Early Chapter: The Founding of Audemars Piguet

Vallée de Joux: The Birthplace of Haute Horlogerie

Nestled in the majestic Jura Mountains, just north of Geneva, lies the Vallée de Joux—a region known as the cradle of Haute Horlogerie or high watchmaking. In this valley, a unique synergy between humans, nature, and time gave rise to a spirit of craftsmanship and a mastery of complex watchmaking that has been passed down through generations. The area is rich in natural resources, including iron ore, providing the essential conditions for the watchmaking industry to flourish. To this day, its rugged natural beauty and clear night skies continue to inspire watchmakers, reflecting the timeless connection between nature, astronomy, and timekeeping.

By the late 18th century, farmers across the region began dedicating their working days to horological craftsmanship. During the long and harsh winter months, resourceful locals utilized their skills and materials to meet the growing demand for timepieces, with many transforming their farmhouses into small workshops. Gradually, a tight-knit network of family artisans emerged throughout the region, each specializing in different components of the watch. This network, known as établissage, laid the groundwork for the modern watch industry.

The concentration of expertise in the Vallée de Joux shows that Audemars Piguet did not appear out of nowhere. It was born from a long-standing tradition of crafting complex timepieces in the region. This deep-rooted history explains why the brand has focused on complications from the very beginning. The Vallée de Joux’s legacy in high complication watchmaking—supported by natural resources—created the ideal environment for a brand like Audemars Piguet to emerge and specialize in intricate horology.

Two Friends with a Shared Vision: Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet

The Audemars Piguet brand was founded by two childhood friends, Jules Louis Audemars (born in 1851) and Edward Auguste Piguet (born in 1853). Both came from watchmaking families long established in Le Brassus, Vallée de Joux. Jules Audemars focused on creating complex watch movements to be sold to other watch manufacturers, while Edward Piguet specialized in regulating those movements.

Their complementary expertise formed a strong foundation for the company. With Audemars handling the technical side and Piguet overseeing management and sales, their clearly defined roles reflected an organized business approach from the outset. This combination proved strategic in building a successful brand for the future.

A Historic Year: The Founding in Le Brassus in 1875

Their first workshop was established in 1875 in Le Brassus, a village in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. Although they began working together in 1875, the company officially took the name Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881. The location in Le Brassus remains the heart of their operations to this day.

The founding of the workshop in 1875 marked the beginning of an extraordinary journey, and the formalization of the company six years later signified a key milestone in the brand’s evolution. The early years were likely focused on product development and building a reputation before adopting a more formal business structure.

From a Small Workshop to a Leading Manufacture

In the beginning, Audemars Piguet operated from a modest workshop located on the Audemars family farm. However, as demand grew and recognition for their craftsmanship increased, they built their first official manufacturing facility in 1907—right next to their original workshop.

This historic building remains a part of the brand’s headquarters today. As the company continued to expand, additional production sites were established in Le Brassus, as well as in Le Locle and Meyrin, to accommodate a growing team of engineers, watchmakers, and artisans.

Despite significant expansion, the brand’s annual production and distribution remain limited to ensure that every timepiece meets the highest standards of quality. This growth from a small-scale workshop to a leading manufacture reflects Audemars Piguet’s early success and the rising demand for their products. Their decision to limit production even after expanding underscores the brand’s commitment to quality and exclusivity over quantity.

Jules Louis Audemars: The Master of Complication

Jules Louis Audemars was born in 1851 in Le Brassus, Switzerland. From a young age, he displayed a deep fascination with timekeeping mechanisms and spent much of his time studying and repairing watches in his father’s workshop. Trained by his father as a watchmaker in the Vallée de Joux, Jules built a strong reputation for crafting complicated movements for various other manufacturers, including renowned names such as Tiffany & Co., even before founding Audemars Piguet.

His obituary confirms that he had been producing complicated watches as early as 1875. Jules Louis Audemars passed away in 1918. His profound expertise in creating intricate watch movements laid the foundation for Audemars Piguet’s reputation in high-complication watchmaking. His experience working with other brands before establishing his own company highlights the fact that he was already a well-established and respected figure in the horological industry.

Edward Auguste Piguet: The Entrepreneurial Spirit Who Grew the Business

Edward Auguste Piguet was born in 1853 in the same region as Jules, the Vallée de Joux. He too was trained as a watchmaker and specialized in the regulation of complex movements. While Jules concentrated on the technical aspects of watchmaking, Edward took charge of the company’s management and sales. Edward Auguste Piguet passed away in 1919. His focus on business development and market expansion complemented Jules’s technical prowess, enabling the company not only to produce high-quality timepieces but also to market them effectively and build a strong distribution network.

Complementary Expertise for Shared Success

The combination of Jules Audemars’s technical mastery and Edward Piguet’s business acumen proved to be a successful formula for the brand. They shared the same values and commitment to excellence, reflected in every watch they produced. The synergy between Jules’s technical vision and Edward’s business instincts was crucial in establishing a solid foundation for Audemars Piguet. Their clearly defined roles allowed each to focus on their strengths, ultimately driving innovation and fostering the brand’s growth.

The Challenge of Pinpointing the “First” Product

Identifying the officially “first” watch produced by Audemars Piguet presents a unique challenge. Before 1951, every watch that left their workshop was essentially a one-of-a-kind piece, often made to order. The concept of “models,” as we understand them today, was only introduced by the company in 1951.

Additionally, the earliest surviving production records date back to 1882, starting with serial number 2000. Unfortunately, earlier records have been lost. The lack of comprehensive production documentation before 1882, combined with the brand’s early focus on crafting unique and limited pieces, makes it difficult to pinpoint a specific watch as Audemars Piguet’s very first product.

An Early Focus on High-Quality Pocket Watches

Although determining the very first watch remains elusive, it is clear that in its early years, Audemars Piguet earned recognition for its expertise in producing high-quality pocket watches with sophisticated complications. Even within their first year of operation, Audemars and Piguet were already offering pocket watches featuring advanced functions such as perpetual calendars and minute repeaters.

Their pocket watches were internationally acclaimed, with one piece even receiving praise at the Paris Exposition in 1889. This early emphasis on finely crafted, highly complicated pocket watches helped establish Audemars Piguet’s reputation as a luxury watchmaker from the very beginning.

Early Complicated Pocket Watches and Notable Milestones

While no single model can definitively be labeled as Audemars Piguet’s “first” watch, several early achievements are worth highlighting as potential “first steps” into the world of horology. In 1892, Audemars Piguet collaborated with Louis Brandt & Frère (which would later become Omega SA) to produce the world’s first wristwatch movement featuring a minute repeater mechanism.

Although this timepiece was made for another brand, the achievement marked a significant milestone for Audemars Piguet, showcasing their exceptional technical ability in creating innovative complications. Later, in 1899, Audemars Piguet produced a “Grand Complication” pocket watch that featured an impressive array of seven complications. This highly complex timepiece, which combined multiple advanced functions, stands as one of the brand’s most significant early creations and a testament to their mastery of high horology.

The Golden Age of Complicated Pocket Watches (Grand Complication 1899)

The “Universelle” pocket watch, created in 1899, was a horological masterpiece of extraordinary complexity, featuring no fewer than 19 complications. Audemars Piguet’s expertise in crafting timepieces of such intricate sophistication solidified their position as a leader in haute horlogerie. Furthermore, the “Grand Complication” presented that same year earned a special award at the Paris World’s Fair. This achievement not only enhanced the brand’s reputation but also reaffirmed their early dedication to producing exceptionally complicated watches.

Transition to the Wristwatch Era and Early Innovations (Minute Repeater Wristwatch 1892, Jumping Hour 1921)

Audemars Piguet demonstrated its adaptability and innovative spirit by producing the world’s first minute repeater wristwatch movement in 1892. This marked a significant shift from pocket watches to wristwatches, placing Audemars Piguet at the forefront of horological advancement. In 1921, they once again made history by creating the world’s first jumping hour wristwatch. Additionally, Audemars Piguet pioneered the development of ultra-thin timepieces, including the thinnest pocket watch caliber in 1925 and the thinnest wristwatch in 1946. These early innovations reflect the brand’s ability to excel not only in traditional complications but also in pushing the boundaries of design and mechanism, adapting seamlessly to the evolving market trends.

Enduring Through Adversity: World Wars and Economic Crisis

Like many other luxury businesses, Audemars Piguet faced significant challenges during World War I and the 1929 economic crisis. These events caused a sharp decline in production and forced the company to reduce its workforce. However, their unwavering commitment to product quality and strong customer loyalty enabled them to survive these turbulent times.

Even during World War II, Audemars Piguet continued producing watches for the civilian market and supplied timepieces for military purposes. The company’s resilience through such adversity highlights its solid foundation and the vital role of quality craftsmanship in maintaining loyal clientele.

A Design Revolution: The Birth of the Royal Oak Icon (1972)

The year 1972 marked a monumental turning point in Audemars Piguet’s history with the launch of the Royal Oak. This timepiece was not merely a new product, but a design revolution—becoming the first luxury sports watch crafted in stainless steel.

Designed by Gérald Genta in an incredibly short time, its groundbreaking design—with an octagonal bezel and exposed screws—was inspired by diving helmets. Although initially met with skepticism due to its unconventional appearance and high price for a steel watch, the Royal Oak eventually became an icon that helped the company navigate the quartz crisis that shook the Swiss watch industry.

Audemars Piguet’s bold move to introduce a luxury steel watch during an era dominated by gold proved to be a visionary step, not only saving the brand but also creating an entirely new category in the watch industry.

Continued Innovation: From the Royal Oak Offshore to Modern Collections

Following the phenomenal success of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet continued to innovate. To celebrate the Royal Oak’s 20th anniversary, they launched the Royal Oak Offshore in 1993—an even larger and sportier interpretation of the original icon.

The brand went on to develop other captivating collections, including Code 11.59, introduced in 2019, featuring contemporary designs and a range of complications; the Millenary collection with its three-dimensional design and exposed mechanisms; the Jules Audemars collection, showcasing classic, elegant styles often with high complications; and the [Re]Master line, reviving iconic vintage models from the brand’s archives.

This diverse portfolio reflects Audemars Piguet’s ongoing commitment to innovation and their ability to broaden the brand’s appeal across different tastes and generations.

Royal Oak: More Than Just a Watch

The Royal Oak is undoubtedly Audemars Piguet’s most popular and iconic timepiece. More than just a timekeeper, the Royal Oak revolutionized the watchmaking industry as the first luxury sports watch made of stainless steel. Its iconic design—with an octagonal bezel, visible screws, and integrated bracelet—makes it instantly recognizable and highly sought after by collectors and watch enthusiasts around the world.

Royal Oak Offshore: A Bolder, Sportier Interpretation

Launched in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore emerged as a larger, bolder, and sportier version of the original Royal Oak. Known for its bigger 42mm case and more aggressive aesthetic, the Offshore appeals to those seeking a luxury watch with a stronger and more masculine presence.

Equally Striking Collections (Code 11.59, Millenary, Jules Audemars, and More)

Beyond the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore, Audemars Piguet also offers other equally captivating collections. Introduced in 2019, Code 11.59 features contemporary designs with uniquely curved crystals and a complex three-part case, available with various complications.

The Millenary collection stands out with its three-dimensional designs and movements often visible through off-centered dials or skeletonized components, offering visual depth and technical complexity.

The Jules Audemars line presents classical and elegant designs with traditional round cases, frequently equipped with high complications that showcase the brand’s expertise in ultra-thin calibers. Lastly, the [Re]Master collection breathes new life into iconic vintage models from Audemars Piguet’s archives, blending nostalgia with modern watchmaking techniques.

A Timeless Brand Philosophy

“To Break the Rules, You Must First Master Them”
Audemars Piguet’s slogan, introduced in 2012, perfectly encapsulates the brand’s spirit of innovation and boldness in challenging conventions—only after mastering the art and science of watchmaking. This philosophy reflects the brand’s commitment to pushing horological boundaries while staying true to its traditions and inherited craftsmanship.

Core Values: Independence, Tradition, and Innovation

Audemars Piguet proudly holds the distinction of being the oldest fine watchmaking manufacturer still owned and operated by its founding families. This independence allows the brand to stay true to its vision and core values.

Deeply rooted in the traditions and craftsmanship passed down through generations in the Vallée de Joux, the brand also embraces a bold spirit of innovation, continuously pushing the limits of watch design and technology.

The harmonious balance between tradition and innovation, coupled with the freedom of family ownership, lies at the heart of Audemars Piguet’s unique identity and enduring success.

Commitment to Excellence and Quality

A commitment to excellence and quality underpins every aspect of Audemars Piguet’s watchmaking. The brand maintains limited production runs to ensure each timepiece meets the rigorous quality standards it upholds. This unwavering focus on craftsmanship and attention to detail has helped Audemars Piguet remain one of the most prestigious and respected luxury watchmakers in the world.

Audemars Piguet Through Time

From its humble beginnings in the Vallée de Joux, Audemars Piguet has grown into one of the most revered icons in the world of fine watchmaking. Driven by an unyielding spirit of innovation, unmatched craftsmanship, and a strong brand philosophy, the company continues to create awe-inspiring timepieces and set new benchmarks in the industry. The story of Audemars Piguet is a timeless journey of heritage, innovation, and unwavering dedication to the art of horology.

Key Milestones and Innovations of Audemars Piguet

Year	Milestone/Innovation
1875	Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet established their first workshop in Le Brassus.
1881	The company was officially registered as Audemars Piguet & Cie.
1892	Collaborated to produce the world’s first minute repeater wristwatch movement.
1899	The “Grand Complication” pocket watch featuring seven complications won an award at the Paris Exposition.
1921	Created the world’s first jumping hour wristwatch.
1925	Developed the world’s thinnest pocket watch caliber.
1946	Released the thinnest wristwatch of its time.
1972	Introduced the Royal Oak, the first luxury sports watch made of steel.
1993	Launched the Royal Oak Offshore.
2019	Introduced the Code 11.59 collection.